O.K. Let's get the complaints about the headwinds out of the way right from the start. Ten of the last twelve riding days we have had constant moderate headwinds! It doesn't matter if we're heading due east - they're coming out of the east. If the next day our ride is mostly southeast, then the winds are coming directly out of the southeast. These claims have been verified by numerous windsocks and farmers along the way. Everyone is saying that the northwest and north central portions of the U.S. are having very strange weather this year. O.K., complaining's done - for now.
So, I have to admit, with the political and social climate in America over the last (you pick a number) years, there has not been a lot to believe in when it comes to the kindness of others. With growing enmity within and across the political parties, and the libertarian (why should I care about someone else, I'm not my brother's keeper) mentality gaining strength in many parts of our country, I have, of late, been questioning whether people are inherently good and whether anyone truly thinks about the welfare of others. During our first few days in North Dakota this was reinforced by some of the least friendly people who I have ever met (which is in strong contrast to the statement made by the Governor on the back of the state map claiming that someone -most likely a North Dakotan - has determined that people from North Dakota are the friendliest in the U.S.). This was illustrated by a woman in a cafe in Carrington, ND, where we were the only customers, going out of her way to try and not be nice to us (this was while the map with the Governor's quote was face up on our table in the cafe). She wouldn't make eye contact, did not check back to see if anything else was needed, and brought Jake his requested water in a small plastic dixie cup immediately after clearing the four glass glasses of water from the table next to us.
So why have I had a partial change of heart regarding people's goodness? Here are four examples:
1. After we exited the cafe in Carrington, three women (and a cute toddler) got out of an SUV and started to enter the restaurant. Seeing Jake attaching various things to his trike, they engaged him in a brief conversation about the nature of our trip. Two minutes after going into the cafe, one of the woman ran out and handed us a $50 bill, thanking us repeatedly for the good work we were doing.
2. This morning we stopped in at the Schmitt Haus Cafe in Gilman, MN for a second breakfast (we really are becoming Hobbits). The owner, Glorene, greeted us warmly and told us about the specials. When she realized that we were biking, and that it was already well on its way to reaching the predicted 95 degrees for the day's high, she offered to have us go to her house for a shower, wait there for a home-cooked meal for dinner, and stay the night so we could get a good night's sleep before continuing on our journey. As we still had a long way to bike, we politely declined our offer. She then asked how she could get listed on the Adventure Cycling maps so that future cyclists could get a meal and a place to stay when they were passing through. We found out just before we left that Glorene and her husband are also foster parents of a six-year-old boy with autism.
3. After biking another few hours in the heat today, Jake spotted a sign for maple syrup. We assumed that no one west of New York state sugared because we got the strangest looks in diners and cafes when we asked if they had any real syrup for our pancakes. So this discovery was very exciting. The syrup was produced by a ministry group in Wisconsin and sold to benefit that group's camp and other endeavors. We met "Grampa Jim" whose name is on the syrup and who, with his wife Paula, have been involved with the ministry, and the sugaring, for many years. So, Jake and I bought the smallest amount of syrup we could to bring with us the next time we were going to a diner for breakfast. Once Jim brought Paula out to meet us (and to take our picture), and they found out the purpose for our trip, they insisted that we trade in the tiny bottle that we had for a couple of pints. A few minutes later, Jim returned the $6 we had paid for the syrup, indicating that it really wasn't giving us something if we paid for it. Jim also indicated that the ministry would be happy to feed us and give us a prayer cabin for the night if we passed through that part of Wisconsin.
When Paula and I were discussing the possible causes for the increase in children diagnosed with autism in Minnesota and the rest of the country, Jim kiddingly replied that it came from eating "Lutefisk" a rather odoriferous fish soaked in lye favored by Norwegians and Swedes. He then told this joke: A Minnesota farmer was having difficulty with skunks that were living under his porch. They were smelling up the house so badly that the family was considering moving out. He decided to drive the skunks out by placing a large quantity of Lukefisk under his porch. The good news is that the skunks are gone. The bad news is that he can't get rid of the Norwegians!
Dalbo, MN tonight. We are in a converted barn, now called the Adventure Cyclist's Bunkhouse. It is located on a country road in southeastern Minnesota and was converted by the owner Donn and his wife Sherry. From what I know, Donn is not himself an avid cyclist. He did, however, realize how nice it would be for folks traveling great distances by bike to have someplace warm (or cool) and dry to stay during their adventure. So he converted this barn into a three bedroom home-away-from-home for cyclists. There is a large living/dining room, a TV, internet service, a shower, and an outhouse. There are also two refrigerators fully stocked with juice, gatorade, sodas, pudding, candy bars, fruit cups, frozen pizzas, etc. There is no charge for staying here and the food is available (at cost) for a donation. And it is available whether Donn and Sherry are home or not (as we found out tonight that they are both away for the weekend).
So, little by little, and person-by person, my belief that there are still people in the world who care about others as much as they do about themselves, is being restored. Of course, I already knew that members of my family, and the incredible people who work with me in support of children with special needs, were in that category to begin with.
Other, less weighty, news:
Spent two days in Fargo, ND and liked it very much. We were able to eat food that wasn't beige, window shop some interesting galleries, and play frisbee golf on a real, but partially flooded, frisbee golf course for the first time.
We were able to ride continuously on a paved bike path (10' wide, no cars) from Fergus Falls, MN to Bowlus, MN, a distance of over 100 miles. The first half was called the Central Lakes Trail and the second half was the Lake Wobegon Trail (where all the pavement is strong, and all of the chipmunks are good looking).
Continue to camp often in small town parks where they fortunately have covered pavilions, which is great because we have had a number of late afternoon thunderstorms.
Lost my beautiful flag somewhere east of Fargo (blasted headwinds!).
The highs for the next week read like the test scores of an honor student. We fully expect that the formerly hated headwinds, that at least kept us cool, will now totally stop so that we may enjoy the full oven effect of the higher temperatures.
We will hit the 2000 mile mark tomorrow as we enter Wisconsin. This unofficially marks the midway point in the trip. It's hard to believe that we've traveled this far already. I must say, that for all of the things that I have said about the wind, or the heat, or road conditions, or the homicidal pilots. the trip has been pretty amazing so far and is really meeting or exceeding our highest expectations.
We hope that you are all having fun and staying cool.
Take care,
Rob & Jake
Hi Guys,
ReplyDeleteHad a dream last night that I came downstairs first thing in the morning to the smell of pancakes. I walked into the kitchen and there you both were, leaning back in your chairs smoking cigars. When I asked how you got back so soon, you said that you thought riding across country on recumbent trikes was a really stupid idea, that you had hurled your bikes into Lake Michigan, and had hitch hiked home. I told Jake that he still had a month and a half left of summer, and if he was going to be home he needed to get a job. He immediately jumped up from the table, ran outside, jumped on Grampa's old bike and rode down the driveway. Rob just lit up another cigar. On the plus side, you both looked really tanned and healthy! Love you both, Mom/Susan